Climbing Gym Etiquette: The Unwritten Rules
Every climbing gym has unwritten rules that regulars know but no one teaches. This guide covers the etiquette that makes everyone's climbing experience better.
Why Etiquette Matters
Climbing gyms are shared spaces where strangers climb in close proximity, often on overlapping routes, with the constant risk of falls. Good etiquette isn't about being polite for politeness' sake — it's about safety and respect.
The climbing community has a reputation for being welcoming and supportive. That culture exists because climbers maintain certain norms. When you follow these unwritten rules, you're contributing to the positive gym environment everyone enjoys.
Essential Etiquette Rules
Stay Out of Fall Zones
Never stand, sit, or walk beneath someone who's climbing. Climbers fall — sometimes unexpectedly — and you don't want to be the landing zone.
Look up before crossing under walls. The 'landing zone' extends several feet out from the wall depending on height and steepness.
Don't Give Unsolicited Beta
'Beta spray' — giving advice when not asked — is one of the most annoying behaviors in climbing. Let people figure things out themselves.
If someone's struggling, wait until they ask for help. If you really want to share, ask first: 'Want some beta?' Respect a 'no.'
Take Turns on Problems
If others are waiting for the same climb, rotate attempts. Don't monopolize a problem with back-to-back-to-back tries.
A good rhythm: attempt, step off, let others try, return. On popular problems, 3 attempts then step aside.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings
Climbing walls often overlap. Before starting, check that your climb won't interfere with someone already on the wall.
If someone's on an adjacent climb, wait for them to finish or climb something else. Collision mid-climb is dangerous.
Keep Noise Reasonable
Grunting on hard moves is fine. Screaming, excessive yelling, and playing music without headphones is not.
Cheering for friends is great, but be mindful of others trying to focus. Gyms are shared spaces.
Clean Up After Yourself
Put away brushes, wipe chalk off holds if you over-chalked, pick up tape scraps, and don't leave belongings scattered.
If you tick holds, consider brushing them when done. Excessive chalk buildup affects grip for everyone.
Common Faux Pas to Avoid
| Behavior | Why It's a Problem |
|---|---|
| Hogging a problem for 20+ minutes | Prevents others from climbing; inconsiderate in busy gyms |
| Walking under active climbers | Dangerous for you; distracting for climber |
| Loud phone calls on the floor | Disrupts others' focus and enjoyment |
| Filming people without permission | Privacy violation; can make people uncomfortable |
| Leaving chalk bags and gear everywhere | Creates tripping hazards and clutter |
| Complaining loudly about grades/setters | Negative energy; disrespectful to staff |
| Excessive spraying of beta | Robs others of the satisfaction of figuring it out |
| Cutting in line for popular climbs | Disrespectful to those who were waiting |
Good Gym Citizen Behaviors
Beyond avoiding bad behavior, here's how to actively contribute to a positive gym culture:
✓ Offer a spot when someone's on a highball
Ask first: 'Want a spot?' Position yourself to guide, not catch.
✓ Brush holds when you're done
Keep a brush in your chalk bag. Quick brush keeps holds grippy.
✓ Celebrate others' sends genuinely
A 'nice send!' costs nothing and builds community.
✓ Give space to people filming/projecting
If someone's clearly working something hard, don't crowd them.
✓ Welcome newcomers warmly
Remember being new. A kind word can shape someone's climbing journey.
✓ Report broken holds or hazards
Tell staff immediately. You might prevent an injury.
The Beta Spray Problem
"Beta spray" deserves its own section because it's the most common etiquette violation in climbing. Beta spray means giving unsolicited advice about how to do a climb.
Why is it a problem? Because figuring out climbs is half the fun. When you tell someone how to do a move they haven't tried yet, you rob them of the problem-solving satisfaction. You might think you're helping, but you're often not.
The Right Way to Share Beta:
- • Wait until asked — "Hey, do you have any beta for this?"
- • Ask permission — "Want some beta?" and respect a "no"
- • Be vague first — "The trick is in the feet" rather than "Put your left foot here..."
- • Stop if they succeed — Once they send, they don't need more advice
Frequently Asked Questions
Politely ask if you can work in between their attempts: 'Mind if I jump on between tries?' Most climbers are happy to share. If they decline, find something else nearby and check back later.
Yes, filming yourself is fine and common for reviewing technique. Just be mindful not to include others prominently in your shots. If you want to post publicly, blur faces or get consent.
Wait until they ask or clearly give up. If they've been trying for a while and seem frustrated, you can ask 'Would you like some beta?' But always accept 'no' gracefully — some people prefer to figure it out themselves.
It's okay to politely say 'Thanks, but I'm trying to figure it out myself!' Most beta-sprayers mean well; they're just excited. A kind boundary usually works.
Look up. Draw an imaginary line from the climber straight down, then add 3-6 feet in each direction depending on height and overhang. If you're in that zone, move. When in doubt, ask.
Not at all! Many climbers go solo regularly. Bouldering doesn't require a partner, and gyms are social places where it's easy to meet people if you want to. Solo sessions are completely normal.
It happens! Just say 'Sorry, I didn't mean to spray — do you want the beta or should I let you figure it out?' Most people appreciate the awareness.
Track Your Sessions at Any Gym
Use Beta Flow to log your climbing sessions, track progress, and remember the problems you've worked on — without spraying beta at everyone around you.