V-Scale Explained: Complete Bouldering Grade Guide
Everything you need to know about the V-scale grading system, from V0 to V17.
What is the V-Scale?
The V-scale (also called the Hueco scale) is the most widely used bouldering grading system in North America. Created by John "Vermin" Sherman in the 1990s at Hueco Tanks, Texas, it rates boulder problems from V0 (easiest) to V17 (hardest in the world).
Unlike route climbing grades (like 5.10 or 5.12), V-grades are designed specifically for short, powerful boulder problems that don't require ropes or harnesses.
V-Scale Grade Chart
Large holds, straightforward moves. Good starting point for new climbers.
Still large holds, but requires some technique and body positioning.
Introduces smaller holds and more deliberate movements.
Requires real climbing technique. A milestone for many climbers.
Sustained difficulty, crimp strength, and body tension needed.
Athletic moves, precise footwork, considered solid intermediate level.
Powerful moves, technical sequences. Significant achievement.
High-level strength and technique required consistently.
Elite amateur level. Years of training typically required.
Professional-level climbing. Very small percentage reach this.
World-class difficulty. Competition climber territory.
The absolute hardest boulder problems ever climbed.
Tips for Progressing Through V-Grades
- 1. Climb consistently — 2-3 sessions per week is ideal for progression.
- 2. Focus on technique — Footwork and body positioning matter more than strength at lower grades.
- 3. Project problems — Working on hard problems (even if you can't send them) builds strength.
- 4. Track your progress — Use Beta Flow to log sends and see your grade progression over time.
- 5. Rest adequately — Tendons and muscles need recovery to get stronger.
V-Scale FAQ
V0 is the easiest grade in the V-scale system. It features large, positive holds and straightforward movements suitable for beginners.
Most climbers reach V5 within 1-3 years of consistent training, though this varies greatly based on fitness background and training frequency.
No, grades can vary between gyms. Some gyms grade 'soft' (easier than outdoor grades) while others are more strict. Track your progress across gyms with Beta Flow.
As of 2024, V17 is the hardest confirmed grade, with only a handful of boulder problems in the world at this difficulty.
Track Your V-Scale Progression
Use Beta Flow to log your boulders and watch your grades improve over time.