How to Read Climbing Routes & Find Beta
Route reading is the overlooked skill that separates good climbers from great ones. Learn to see sequences before you touch the wall and send more climbs with fewer attempts.
Why Route Reading Matters
Have you ever watched someone flash a climb you've been working on for sessions? Chances are, they're not stronger than you — they're better at reading routes.
Elite climbers spend significant time studying routes before attempting them. They identify cruxes, plan sequences, visualize body positions, and mentally rehearse the climb. By the time they touch rock, they've already "climbed" it in their head.
Route reading isn't natural talent — it's a learnable skill that improves with deliberate practice. This guide will teach you the systematic approach used by advanced climbers.
The 6-Step Route Reading Process
Identify the Line
Trace the path from start to finish. In the gym, follow the tape/color. Outdoors, identify the natural line of holds and features.
Find Key Holds
Spot the obvious handholds and footholds. Look for jugs, edges, and features that will be your anchors throughout the climb.
Identify Crux Sections
Where does it look hardest? Small holds? Long reach? Steep section? Knowing where the crux is helps you pace effort.
Plan Rest Positions
Where can you shake out? Good stances, jugs, and knee bars are recovery opportunities. Plan to use them.
Sequence the Moves
Work backwards from the top if needed. Which hand goes where? When do you match? What foot moves first?
Visualize the Climb
Close your eyes and imagine doing each move. Feel the holds, see your body position. Mental rehearsal improves success rate.
Know Your Hold Types
Recognizing hold types from the ground tells you what grip to use and how the move will feel. Here's your visual vocabulary:
Jug
Deep, bucket-likeLarge, positive hold you can wrap your hand around. Best hold type. Look for these for rests.
Edge/Ledge
Horizontal shelfFlat surface you grip with your fingers. Can be good (deep) or bad (thin). Watch finger position.
Crimp
Thin, sharp edgeSmall edge requiring crimped finger position. Finger intensive. Plan to use sparingly.
Sloper
Rounded, smoothRounded hold with no positive edge. Requires friction and body position. Keep weight under it.
Pinch
Vertical or protrudingHold you squeeze between thumb and fingers. Thumb strength dependent. Can be wide or narrow.
Hole in the wall for one or more fingers. Can be mono (1), two-finger, or three-finger.
Undercling
Upside-down edgeHold you grip from below with palm up. Requires pulling up and out. Body position critical.
Sidepull
Vertical edgeVertical hold you pull sideways on. Requires opposition from feet or other hand.
Gaston
Outward-facing verticalSidepull you push out from your body rather than pull. Shoulder intensive.
Visualization Techniques
Visualization isn't woo-woo — it's a proven technique used by elite athletes across all sports. Here's how to apply it to climbing:
First-Person View
See the climb through your own eyes. Watch your hands reach for holds. Feel the texture. Experience the sequence as if you're doing it.
Third-Person View
Watch yourself from outside. See your body moving through positions. Useful for understanding complex body positions and balance points.
Kinesthetic Feel
Feel the movements in your body. The tension in your core, the pull in your arms, the weight on your feet. Physical sensation deepens the rehearsal.
Pro Tip: Studies show that combining all three visualization modes produces the best results. Spend 30-60 seconds visualizing before each attempt on a project.
Common Route Reading Mistakes
MISTAKE
Not looking at feet
FIX
Force yourself to identify footholds FIRST before hands. Feet determine body position.
MISTAKE
Planning only the next move
FIX
Look 3-4 moves ahead. Understanding sequences prevents awkward positions.
MISTAKE
Ignoring rest opportunities
FIX
Scan for every possible rest stance. Even a quick shake improves performance.
MISTAKE
Not considering body position
FIX
Think about WHERE your body will be, not just where your hands go. Position enables moves.
MISTAKE
Over-gripping obvious holds
FIX
Just because a hold looks good doesn't mean you need to death-grip it. Save energy.
MISTAKE
Rushing the read
FIX
Spend 2-5 minutes reading a problem. More time reading = fewer failed attempts.
Practice Drills for Better Route Reading
Frequently Asked Questions
Beta refers to information about how to do a climb — the sequence of moves, body positions, and techniques needed to send. Getting 'beta' means getting advice on how to do a climb. 'Beta spray' is unsolicited beta (frowned upon).
First, try to read the route yourself (better for improvement). If stuck, watch others climb it, ask someone who's sent it, or look up videos. For outdoor climbs, guidebooks and Mountain Project often have beta.
Onsight means sending a climb first try with no beta — you've never seen anyone climb it or received advice. Flash means sending first try but with prior beta (watching others, getting advice). Both are impressive; onsight is harder.
Break the climb into sections. Memorize each section's sequence, then link them mentally. Use verbal cues ('left hand up, high step right, flag left'). Visualize the entire climb before each attempt.
It depends on your goal. For onsight practice, don't watch. For sending quickly or learning technique, watching helps tremendously. Most recreational climbers benefit from watching better climbers.
Practice deliberately: spend time reading BEFORE climbing, guess sequences, then see if you were right. Watch skilled climbers and predict their moves. Read routes even when not climbing them. The skill improves with conscious effort.
Track Your Sends & Beta
Use Beta Flow to log your climbs, note the beta that worked, and track your flash/onsight rate to see your route reading improve.