YDS Climbing Grades Explained: The Complete Guide
Understand the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) used to rate rock climbing routes from 5.6 to 5.15, including sub-grades, international conversions, and what each level means.
What is the Yosemite Decimal System?
The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is the standard climbing grade system used in North America. Originally developed in the 1930s and refined at Yosemite Valley, it rates technical rock climbing routes on a scale starting at 5.0.
The "5" indicates Class 5 terrain — technical rock climbing where a fall could be fatal and rope protection is standard. The number after the decimal point indicates difficulty within Class 5, ranging from 5.0 (easiest) to 5.15 (hardest in the world).
For routes 5.10 and harder, letter grades (a, b, c, d) subdivide each number grade into four levels of difficulty, providing more precision in the upper grades where small differences matter significantly.
Complete YDS Grade Chart
Large holds, low angle. Suitable for first-time climbers. Most people can complete with minimal instruction.
Ladders and juggy face climbing
Still positive holds but requires basic technique. Footwork starts to matter. Average fitness adequate.
Steeper terrain, smaller feet
The gateway grade. Requires real climbing ability. Milestone for many gym climbers.
Varied movement, continuous
Sustained difficulty with technical sections. Good fitness and technique required.
Crimp sequences, endurance
Solid intermediate climbing. Definite crux moves. Requires training to achieve.
Powerful moves, technical cruxes
Serious climbing. Usually requires dedicated training. Most casual climbers plateau here.
Sustained power, precise footwork
Strong amateur level. Physical training essential. Technique must be dialed.
Difficult sequences, good rests rare
Elite recreational climbing. Years of training typical. Top 5% of gym climbers.
Sustained crux sections
Very strong climbing. Approaching semi-professional level.
Powerful and technical throughout
Professional-level difficulty. World-class recreational climbers.
Limit climbing for most
Elite professional climbing. Fewer than 1% of climbers achieve this.
World-class routes
The absolute limit of human climbing. Only a handful of routes exist.
Historic first ascents
Understanding Sub-Grades (a/b/c/d)
For grades 5.10 and above, letter suffixes break each number grade into four difficulty levels. This provides precision where it matters most — the difference between 5.12a and 5.12d represents months of training for most climbers.
5.10a is the easiest 5.10
5.10b is slightly harder than 5.10a
5.10c requires more strength
5.10d is nearly a 5.11a
YDS to French/UIAA Grade Conversion
Different countries use different grading systems. Here's how YDS compares to French (sport climbing standard in Europe), UIAA, and British grades:
| YDS (USA) | French | UIAA | British |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5.9 | 5b/5c | V- | 4c |
| 5.10a | 6a | VI | 5a |
| 5.10b | 6a+ | VI+ | 5b |
| 5.10c | 6b | VII- | 5b |
| 5.10d | 6b+ | VII | 5c |
| 5.11a | 6c | VII+ | 5c |
| 5.11b | 6c+ | VIII- | 6a |
| 5.11c | 7a | VIII | 6a |
| 5.11d | 7a+ | VIII+ | 6b |
| 5.12a | 7a+/7b | VIII+ | 6b |
| 5.12b | 7b | IX- | 6b |
| 5.12c | 7b+ | IX | 6c |
| 5.12d | 7c | IX+ | 6c |
| 5.13a | 7c+ | IX+ | 7a |
| 5.13b | 8a | X- | 7a |
| 5.13c | 8a+ | X | 7b |
| 5.13d | 8b | X+ | 7b |
Note: Conversions are approximate. Route character (technical vs. physical) and location affect perceived difficulty.
Grade Progression Tips
- 1. Build a pyramid — Climb many routes below your max to build a solid base. For every 5.11 you send, climb ten 5.10s.
- 2. Focus on weaknesses — If you struggle on slab, climb more slab. If overhangs are hard, seek them out. Balanced ability = faster progression.
- 3. Project strategically — Work routes 1-2 grades above your onsight level. Too hard = frustration; too easy = no growth.
- 4. Track everything — Log routes in Beta Flow to identify patterns. Which styles are weak? Where do you fall? Data drives improvement.
- 5. Rest adequately — Climbing harder grades requires recovery. Most climbers improve faster climbing 3-4 days/week than 6.
YDS Grades FAQ
The '5' indicates Class 5 terrain in the original Yosemite system — technical rock climbing requiring a rope. Classes 1-4 are hiking and scrambling. The number after the decimal indicates difficulty within Class 5.
The letter subdivides the grade into four levels (a, b, c, d). 5.10a is the easiest 5.10 and 5.10d is the hardest. The jump from 5.10d to 5.11a is smaller than 5.10a to 5.10d — the letters represent significant difficulty differences.
Most beginners start around 5.6-5.8. A reasonable first-year goal is climbing 5.10a consistently. Focus on technique over grades initially — climbers who develop good footwork progress faster long-term.
Highly variable. Athletes with good fitness backgrounds might reach 5.12a in 2-3 years. Most recreational climbers take 4-7 years if they train consistently. Some never reach it, and that's okay — climbing is about personal progression.
Generally no. Most gyms grade slightly easier ('softer') than outdoor routes. A gym 5.10c might feel like an outdoor 5.10a. This varies by gym. Use Beta Flow to track grades at different gyms and calibrate expectations.
As of 2025, 5.15d is the hardest confirmed grade, with only a few routes in the world at this level. Routes like 'Silence' (5.15d) in Norway represent the current limit of human rock climbing ability.
They measure different things. Rough conversion: V0 ≈ 5.10 crux moves, V5 ≈ 5.12 crux moves, V10 ≈ 5.14 crux moves. But boulders are short and routes require sustaining effort, so direct comparison is imprecise.
Track Your Route Climbing Progression
Use Beta Flow to log lead climbs, track YDS grades, and see your route climbing improvement over time.